How to check if a pre-owned watch is genuine: 7 things we check before buying
When you buy a pre-owned watch, you pay not only for the brand and the model, but also for the certainty that the piece is exactly what it claims to be. Fakes keep getting better, and there are also “frankenwatches” assembled from parts of different pieces. That is why everything goes through a fixed checklist before it appears in our offer. Below we describe it step by step, so you can use it when buying elsewhere too.
1. Reference number and serial number
Every higher-end watch has a reference, the model designation, and an individual serial number. We check whether the reference matches what we see: case diameter, dial, bezel, movement. We compare the serial number with the warranty card and documents. If the number is worn off, looks re-engraved or does not match the papers, that ends the conversation for us.
2. The movement
This is the hardest thing to fake. We open the caseback or look at the movement through the display back and compare it with the manufacturer’s documentation: calibre, bridge finishing, engravings, jewels. A genuine Omega, Tudor or IWC movement has very specific details that cheaper substitutes do not reproduce. We also measure the rate and amplitude, because even a genuine movement may need a service after years.
3. Dial and hands
On the dial we look at the printing under a loupe: the typeface, sharp edges, the placement of the text. On genuine pieces the print is crisp and perfectly centred. We also check whether the dial and hands have been replaced or refinished, because that changes the collector value of the watch, even if it is fully genuine.
4. Case, bezel and crystal
We examine the edges of the case. Sharp, preserved bevels show that the watch has not been heavily polished, which is especially valued on collectible models. We check the bezel action, the markings on the caseback, the crown and the sapphire crystal. On fakes something often does not sit right: the bezel has play, the crown turns stiffly or the caseback engraving is shallow.
5. Bracelet and clasp
The bracelet can reveal more than you might think. We check the markings on the clasp, the bracelet reference number, how the links are joined and their weight. Sometimes a genuine watch is sold on an aftermarket bracelet. That is not a problem, but the buyer has to know about it, so we always state it clearly in the description.
6. Papers and provenance
A warranty card, box, store receipt or service history do not guarantee authenticity, because they can be faked too. They are, however, an important piece of the puzzle. We check whether the dates, numbers and the store name tell a consistent story. We also ask the seller where the watch comes from, and we do not buy pieces of unclear origin.
7. A watchmaker’s check
Finally, the watch goes to a watchmaker who assesses its technical condition and confirms our findings. Only then do we issue a certificate of authenticity and give a 12-month warranty. If you wish, you can also have the watch checked by a watchmaker of your choice before buying. We have no problem with that.
Looking for a specific model?
All the watches in our offer have passed the verification described above. If what you are looking for is not among them, write to us. Tell us the brand, model and budget, and we will search the market and come back with specific proposals.